The rise of the manufacture and appreciation of agave spirits in India
Divya Naik Divya Naik | 05 Dec, 2024
A classic margarita by DesmondJi
ON A SWELTERING day in Goa, this summer, a handful of spirited enthusiasts raised their glasses to inaugurate the Tulleeho Tequila Club, touted as ‘India’s first Tequila Club’. As they sipped on cocktails crafted with locally produced agave spirits, it became clear that a new chapter was unfolding in India’s beverage history—a chapter where homegrown brands like DesmondJi, Pistola Agavepura, and Loca Loka would redefine the meaning of tequila and agave spirits for the Indian market.
This is the story of how Indian entrepreneurs are carving out a niche in a category long dominated by Mexico. It is a story of blending tradition with innovation and introducing the world to Indian agave spirits.
The seed of India’s agave spirit revolution was planted over two decades ago by Desmond Nazareth, founder of DesmondJi, the first Indian brand to produce agave spirits. The journey began in the early 2000s when Nazareth, returning to India after years in the US, discovered that good tequila was nearly impossible to find in Bombay. “I was looking for tequila in Bombay, and I could not find it easily… I saw these agave plants and thought, ‘I’ve seen plants similar to this when I was growing up in India,’” he recalls. Intrigued, he embarked on a mission to explore whether the agave could be cultivated and distilled in India.
Nazareth’s exploration led him to the Deccan Plateau, a region with the perfect conditions for agave cultivation—sharing the same latitude band as Mexico’s tequila-producing regions. “The latitude band in Mexico where agave grows for production of tequila and mezcal passed right through central India… I realised we had the perfect conditions for agave here,” he says. This revelation prompted him to start DesmondJi, India’s first craft distillery dedicated to agave spirits.
However, convincing people of the viability of an Indian agave spirit was no easy feat. “People were sceptical. We had to show them our process, videos of our distillery, and give sneak peeks to build trust and awareness,” Nazareth shares. But his perseverance paid off, and DesmondJi became the pioneer of India’s agave spirit movement, setting the stage for others to follow.
“We went on a seven-day expedition with a botanist to find the right species of agave on the Deccan Plateau. It felt like discovering a treasure hidden in plain sight,” says Desmond Nazareth, founder, DesmondJi
DesmondJi produces a range of spirits, including agave nectar, margaritas, orange liqueurs, and of course, its signature agave spirits. The production process stays true to traditional methods while being adapted to Indian conditions. “We went on a seven-day expedition with a botanist to find the right species of agave on the Deccan Plateau,” says Nazareth. “It felt like discovering a treasure hidden in plain sight.”
The brand’s Blue Ocean Strategy set it apart by offering a world-class product at a competitive price, avoiding the heavy import duties associated with foreign spirits. This strategy enabled DesmondJi to gain a significant market share in states like Karnataka, where it now commands almost 50 percent of the agave spirits market. “We’ve doubled our production capacity and are expanding our reach. The demand has been surprising, and we are only getting started,” Nazareth adds.
While DesmondJi laid the groundwork, Pistola Agavepura emerged with a vision to bring a premium, pure agave spirit to the Indian market. Pistola was founded by Rakshay Dhariwal and Radhika Dhariwal in 2022.
Kimberly is the Chief Operating Office. Pistola is Asia’s first aged 100 percent agave spirit, positioning itself as a sophisticated alternative to the traditional image of tequila. “We believed that consumers would be open to exploring new-age agaves. Pistola’s vision was to bring to market a premium, authentic 100 percent aged agave that does not use any additives for flavour enhancement,” Pereira explains.
Produced from Wild Agave Americana grown in the Deccan Plateau, Pistola is aged in Goa, where the unique climate adds a distinct character to its expressions. From the Reposado, aged in Virgin American White Oak and ex-Bourbon casks, to the Extra Añejo, aged for over 36 months, each variant reflects a dedication to quality and authenticity. “Our Reposado, aged for four to six months, carries complex notes of butterscotch, vanilla, and pineapple,” Pereira shares. “We have also crafted unique variants like Rosa, aged in ex-Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, and Añejo, aged for over 14 months, each with its own character and depth.”
“Loca Loka was born out of a desire to create a unique cultural fusion. We wanted to bring together the vibrant traditions of Mexico and India, offering beverages that celebrate the rich heritage of both,” says Harsha Vadlamudi, founder, Loca Loka
Since its launch, Pistola has received 33 international awards and expanded its presence across six Indian states and three international markets. “Our consumers are well travelled and keen on experimenting with aged spirits. Agave’s increasing popularity can be attributed to its raw peppery and spicy characteristics that pair well with Indian food,” Pereira adds.
The interest in agave spirits has been further nurtured by initiatives like the Tulleeho Tequila Club, which aimed to create a community of agave enthusiasts across India. Achanta adds, “The core focus is ‘edutainment’—a perfect blend of education and entertainment. Through immersive experiences like tequila tastings, bar takeovers, and curated cocktail and food pairings, we empower Indian consumers to explore new agave brands and innovative agave-centric bars.”
Co-founded by Indian film actor Rana Daggubati, music composer Anirudh Ravichander, and entrepreneur Harsha Vadlamudi, Loca Loka represents a cultural blend that connects India and Mexico through its spirits. The brand offers two tequila variants—Blanco and Reposado—crafted in Mexico but with a vision rooted deeply in Indian culture. “Loca Loka Tequila was born out of a desire to create a unique cultural fusion,” explains Vadlamudi. “We wanted to bring together the vibrant traditions of Mexico and India, offering beverages that celebrate the rich heritage of both.”
Loca Loka has already made a mark in the US market with a series of high-profile launch events. “The response to our tequila has surpassed our expectations. Many connoisseurs expressed surprise and delight at the purity and potency of our additive-free highland agave blend,” says Vadlamudi.
Creating high-quality agave spirits in India involves a meticulous production process that combines traditional techniques with local innovation. Pistola uses Wild Agave Americana plants aged 11 to 13 years, harvested from the Deccan Plateau. The agave is aged, blended, and bottled in Goa. The aging process, which takes place in various casks including Virgin American White Oak and ex-Bourbon barrels, is key to developing the distinct flavours of Pistola’s expressions. “Our spirits mature in different barrels, each contributing to a complex flavour profile, with absolutely no artificial additives,” Pereira explains.
Similarly, DesmondJi has tailored its production methods to India’s unique climate and resources. “We adapted distillation methods from Mexican traditions but optimised them for the Indian environment,” Nazareth explains. “The production process is characterised by careful selection of agave species, innovative distillation methods, and aging in unique climatic conditions that give our spirits their distinctive profile,” he says.
Loca Loka, while produced in Mexico, ensures that its spirit carries influences from both Indian and Mexican traditions. The brand’s focus on quality—using 100 percent blue agave without any additives—demonstrates a commitment to authenticity and cultural fusion.
“Our consumers are well travelled and keen on experimenting with aged spirits. Agave’s increasing popularity can be attributed to its raw peppery and spicy characteristics that pair well with Indian food,” says Kimberly Pereira, founder, Pistola Agavepura
WHILE BRANDS LIKE DesmondJi, Pistola Agavepura, and Loca Loka are pioneering the production of agave spirits in India, creating a community around these spirits is equally vital to their success. Enter Tulleeho Tequila Club, founded by Vikram Achanta.
Achanta, a well-known figure in India’s beverage industry and co-founder of 30 Best Bars India, saw a unique opportunity in the growing curiosity around agave spirits. “There is undoubtedly an agave revolution taking place in the beverage world, fuelled by newer brands and a cocktail culture that has embraced the spirit,” he explains. “Consumers are increasingly curious and are looking beyond just purchasing a spirit—they’re seeking out experiences that enrich their understanding of spirits through interactions and conversations.”
Through the club, members and guests are offered immersive experiences such as tequila tastings, bar takeovers, and curated cocktail and food pairings, designed to appeal to connoisseurs, enthusiasts, and curious drinkers alike. Since its launch in May, the response to Tulleeho Tequila Club has been overwhelmingly positive. “The consumer curiosity to explore agave is immense, and it is interesting to see how deep the enthusiasm for the category goes,” Achanta notes. The club has ambitious plans to expand its reach, with upcoming events planned in cities like Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore, Kolkata, and Delhi, aiming to build a nationwide community of agave enthusiasts.
The reception of these homegrown tequila brands has been overwhelmingly positive, both domestically and internationally. Pistola has rapidly expanded its footprint, capturing markets across India and internationally in the US, Thailand, and Singapore. The brand’s focus on premium quality, unique flavour profiles, and authenticity has resonated with a discerning consumer base.
Loca Loka, on the other hand, has made a splash in the US with launch events that attracted thousands. “The response was extraordinary; we witnessed our vision come to life,” says Daggubati. “We look forward to expanding further and bringing Loca Loka to more people across the globe.”
DesmondJi continues to grow its market presence, recently doubling its production capacity to meet rising demand. “We are committed to expanding our reach and educating more consumers about agave spirits,” Nazareth says. “Our journey has just begun, and there is much more to come.”
WHILE THE EMERGENCE of these brands is promising, the path to establishing a new spirit category in India is fraught with challenges. Each state has different regulations, taxes, and distribution controls, making it difficult for brands to scale. “The biggest challenge would be the supply chain and the taxation involved in each state. Some states even control the supply chain and distribution,” notes Vadlamudi of Loca Loka. DesmondJi faced similar hurdles. “In Delhi, for example, we were asked to register our agave spirits in an existing category, but then fined for doing so,” Nazareth recounts. “The regulatory landscape can be a maze.”
There is also still a significant knowledge gap among Indian consumers about agave spirits. Many still view tequila as a party drink rather than a premium sipping spirit. To combat this, brands like Pistola and DesmondJi are focusing heavily on consumer education through digital campaigns, collaborations, and on-ground events. “We’ve prioritised on-ground events like spirit festivals and bar takeovers to build category awareness among spirit enthusiasts,” says Pereira.
“There is undoubtedly an agave revolution taking place in the beverage world, fuelled by newer brands and a cocktail culture that has embraced the spirit,” says Vikram Achanta, founder, Tulleeho Tequila Club
For brands like DesmondJi, gaining trust has been an ongoing challenge. “Initially, people were very sceptical, they thought we were playing them for fools,” says Nazareth. “But by showing them our process and being transparent, we built trust and credibility”.
Brands like DesmondJi, Pistola, and Loca Loka are breaking new ground, proving that India can produce world-class agave spirits that appeal to a global audience. As they continue to navigate the challenges and seize the opportunities of this burgeoning market, these pioneers are inviting connoisseurs to see India as an agave drink innovator.
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