The Kumbh Mela is a spectacle of faith, devotion, and humanity. Still, amid the chanting sadhus, the swirling crowds, and the rhythmic aartis, it’s the children who infuse the festival with a unique vibrancy. Their presence breathes youthful energy into the festival and rings out above the hum of the crowds.
You can spot them everywhere. Some cling to their parents or guardians who have travelled from nearby villages or far-off cities. Others, however, seem to carry the spirit of self-reliance. They engage in small entrepreneurial activities- a few sit by flower stalls, stringing flowers into garlands, while others carry urns of oil or bundles of incense sticks, offering blessings in exchange for small donations. Some sell vegetables and groceries. What binds them all, though, is a sense of joy and mischief. The children can be seen everywhere in the Mela, and their playful chatter turns mundane commerce into a spirited adventure.
The children find their most exciting moments during a playful dip in the cold river waters, where splashes and giggles outnumber prayers. Some sit wide-eyed during the chants of aartis, absorbing the moment, while most eagerly await the prasad. Food stalls, especially chaat thelas and ice cream vendors, are irresistible magnets for these young attendees. It’s a reminder that while the children may not grasp the significance of the Kumbh Mela, they are fully attuned to the pleasures of life at the Mela.
The children at the Kumbh Mela remind us that the festival is not just a convergence of spirituality but also a celebration of life in all its forms. Their boundless energy and innocent joy make the sacred even more special and unforgettable.
The Nagavsuki Temple: Celebration of Devotion and Renewal
January 18, 2025
Within the grand tapestry of the Kumbh Mela and its sacred grounds lies the Nagavsuki Temple. Such is the temple’s centrality to the lore of Kumbh Mela that a pilgrimage’s efforts are wasted without a visit to the temple. The main idol at the temple, housed in the sanctum sanctorum, is of the King of Snakes, Nagavasuki. This sacred sanctuary, also called “Naghriday Tirth,” is a hidden gem of profound spiritual significance. For a true seeker on a journey to the Kumbh, it becomes not just a place of worship but a haven for sadhana and a rare connection to the lord.
Perched atop a hill overlooking the Ganga, the Nagavasuki Mandir is more than just a shrine; it’s a beacon of solace and spiritual healing. The temple’s main entrance opens to roads on the side leading to a nearby railway station, and an entrance towards the back of the temple opens to a residential colony right at the back of the temple. It feels like an intimate affair with those residing near the temple premises and travellers from far off. Some sit down after completing parikramas around a peepal tree right next to the idol of Nagavasuki, sharing words of devotion with fellow devotees. The temple priests offer remedies for various challenges, from performing Kaal Sarp Dosh Puja to bringing harmony to rituals designed to pacify planetary influences, ward off evil, or restore vitality to the sick. These practices draw countless devotees seeking both spiritual and earthly solace.
According to ancient lore, the devas and asuras used Vasuki, the serpent king, as a rope to churn the ocean for the nectar of immortality. When the elixir spilled onto four spots on earth, one of them was Prayagraj, making it a sacred site for the Kumbh Mela. The temple marks the place where the mighty serpent is believed to have rested after his monumental effort, symbolising gratitude and reverence for his contribution to divine creation.
The temple and surrounding areas have undergone a significant transformation in preparation for the 2025 Maha Kumbh. The freshly renovated temple walls narrate the story of Samudra Manthan, while signboards guide visitors through the temple’s rich history and significance. Thanks to a newly erected board, traffic around the temple is now better managed. A new pontoon bridge across the Ganga enhances accessibility, linking the temple to the Sangam area and making it easier for pilgrims to visit this sacred spot.
Blossoms of Devotion
January 17, 2025
Flowers filled with fragrance bring joy to the heart; when used in worship, they guide the devotee on the path to liberation – From the Narada Purana (Purva Bhaga, Chapter 51.40)
The air at the Mahakumbh Mela 2025 in Prayagraj is infused with a heady mix of devotion, spirituality, and the unmistakable fragrance of fresh flowers. Naga Sadhus, ascetics who renounce worldly possessions, including clothing, stood out with their ash-smeared bodies ornamented with flowers, strikingly contrasting their austere appearance. In this extraordinary scene, flowers transformed into their attire, draped across their forms as they paraded towards the sacred Sangam for the ceremonial dip. The sadhus, adorned with their floral finery, entered the water amidst chants of “Har Har Mahadev” and “Jai Ganga Maiya”. The scene was chaotic and serene, a paradox only the Kumbh Mela can encapsulate. It was a living testament to the transformative power of devotion, where even the simplest of elements—flowers—took on profound spiritual significance.
Flowers are sacred in Hindu worship, from temples to home altars, as they form an indispensable part of rituals. But nowhere is their presence more vibrant and awe-inspiring than at the Kumbh Mela. The spectacle of chariots in the procession of sadhus adorned with a kaleidoscope of flowers is a sight that stays etched in the memory of every pilgrim. As the first Shahi Snan of this Maha Kumbh unfolded, the chariots in the processions of the sadhus became moving gardens, radiating the fervour of the festival.
The Kumbh Mela, in all its grandeur, is a celebration of life, faith, and the simple, unassuming bloom that bridges the human and the divine. Walking through the Mela grounds, one cannot help but notice the deep connection between flowers and faith. Vendors selling garlands and loose flowers line the pathways, their offerings eagerly picked up by devotees. The flowers are not merely decorative; they are symbols of purity and love, offered to deities as a gesture of devotion and gratitude. The flowers at the Kumbh Mela are more than offerings; they are carriers of emotion, faith, and a deep sense of connection to the divine. They weave together the threads of tradition, art, and devotion, turning a sprawling gathering into a masterpiece of collective spirituality.
It is Tough Being a Cop in Prayagraj
January 13, 2025
The Kumbh Mela is not just a spiritual gathering; it is a carefully orchestrated endeavour that blends faith with meticulous planning. In a conversation with a group of police constables, the layers of preparation and effort became clear. “Managing an event of this scale is no small feat,” one constable said. “It’s not just about crowd control; it’s about ensuring that every individual feels safe and cared for.”
The complexity of the operation is reflected in the systems designed for crowd movement. On Pontoon bridges, a one-way traffic system alternates directions based on odd and even numbers, preventing bottlenecks and ensuring a seamless flow of people. “It’s all about keeping things moving smoothly,” a constable explained, emphasising the balance between control and the natural rhythm of the crowd.
Communication plays a vital role, with helplines like the Maha Kumbh number (1920) and the Mela Police Helpline (122) serving as lifelines for those needing assistance. Sector-wise maps, they said, are the backbone of police deployment and coordination, allowing the force to respond swiftly and efficiently.
The constables detailed the day-to-day realities of their work. They narrated how the police force operates round-the-clock in 8-hour shifts, ensuring a constant presence across the sprawling grounds. “We’ve set up women’s police stations at strategic points as well, along with ours,” said another officer. “These are crucial for addressing the needs and safety of female pilgrims, who form a significant part of the attendees.”
“It’s a team effort,” one constable remarked, “from civil defence to the Rapid Action Force, everyone plays a part in ensuring the Mela runs safely and peacefully. Our role is to protect, but also to guide and assist.” As they shared their experiences, it became evident that the Kumbh Mela’s success rests not just on the devotion of its pilgrims but also on the dedication of those who work tirelessly behind the scenes.
For most sadhus, Maha Kumbh is a microcosm of devotion, community
January 13, 2025
“The purpose of human life,” a Sadhu at the Kumbh Mela notes, “is to serve, to give”. Each of us has only a finite time during which our bodies and minds can function at their fullest, he adds. “This time is not for hoarding wealth, knowledge, or resources but for sharing them with those in need. Through Seva, we learn to live a truly full life, one free from the weight of ego. It teaches us humility, gratitude, and the profound joy of giving selflessly,” he explains.
He spoke of his journey, one that led him to renounce personal desires and join an Akhada, a one in which ascetics were devoted to seva. “Beyond a certain point, when your needs are met and your desires fulfilled, holding on to more than what is necessary brings imbalance. It is then that Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, turns her blessings into punishment. Greed blinds the soul, and the only way to cleanse it is through giving, through Seva.”
He had sacrificed worldly possessions, wealth, and comfort to align himself with the principles of the Akhada. The focus of his existence had shifted from receiving to giving: offering wisdom, knowledge and food to the hungry. “Seva,” he said, “is the purest act of faith. It is how we honor the divine within us and in others. Before our systems, this body, this mind, shut down, we must serve. That is the ultimate purpose of life.”
The Sadhu described the Kumbh as a microcosm of devotion and community. “This is where the Gurus teach the art of giving. They show us how to incorporate Seva into our daily lives, to live fully and meaningfully. It’s not just about faith in God; it’s about faith in goodness, in humanity.” Similar are the tales that other saints here in Prayagraj have to offer. The Kumbh Mela therefore becomes a mirror reflecting the highest ideals of human life. It is not just a festival or a pilgrimage; it is a reminder that life is not measured by what we hold but by what we share, it’s only through seva that we learn how to live a meaningful life. This is the heart of the Kumbh: a confluence not just of rivers, but of faith, humanity, and the timeless call to serve.
More Columns
The Playful Souls of Kumbh Mela: A Celebration of Childhood Joy Kumbh Team Institute for Competitiveness
David Lynch (1946-2025): The Dreamer Siddharth Chadha
Blossoms of Devotion Open