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Ayodhya Savours the Moment

The mood is upbeat ahead of the consecration ceremony of the idol of Lord Rama at the Rama Mandir near the Saryu that now dominates the landscape

Rajeev Deshpande Rajeev Deshpande | 20 Jan, 2024

Sadhus before a mobile temple of infant Hanuman (Photos: Rajeev Deshpande)

The flight at Delhi was boarded well in time, before the no-fly zone at the airport beginning at 10 am Saturday. But the queue of waiting flights was long and the captain’s announcement of a delay was met with sighs. But in minutes, the Ayodhya bound flight rang with “Ram-Ram” chants filling the cabin. Soon, travellers listened to Swami Chindanand Saraswati, spiritual head of the Parmarth Niketan at Rishikesh, who was invited to speak on the significance of the Ram Mandir.

Swami Chidanand explained the “civilisational significance” of the temple and the return of Lord Ram after a wait of centuries. “I got back from the US this morning. I can tell you the crowd at Times Square in New York on Monday will be large and emotional,” he said, speaking of festivities that would defy the east coast freeze. The flight had a sprinkling of Bharatiya Janata Party and Rashtriya Swayamsewak Sangh members and it was obvious the Sangh is relishing its role in the consecration ceremonies. Given the company, praise of Prime Minister Narendra Modi was hardly a surprise. Despite criticism of some saffron figures, BJP seems to stand in good stead with its core constituency. Everyone is sure the delay is temporary and the flight will soon be on its way.

Boats bedecked with saffron flags in the Saryu

The touchdown at Ayodhya a few hours later is greeted by shouts of “Jai Sri Ram” and more singing and chanting. The road to Ayodhya Dham was fairly empty due to entry restrictions before the ceremonies slated for Monday. But the road leading to the series of ghats on the Saryu at Ram ki Paidi are milling with devotees with Ram bhajans playing from loudspeakers. The crowds are in good spirits, waving saffron flags and posing for roving camera crews.

There is no cricket match in the offing, but people are getting their faces painted. It is not the India colours but a saffron imprint with “Jai Sri Ram” and “Sri Ram” on the forehead. A young boy expertly applies the shades on two women and the job is done in a matter of minutes. Many Ram bhakts head for stalls and shops selling steaming cups of tea and hot bread pakoras expertly lifted from large pans of boiling oil and placed in sieved vessels to drain. The sweet tea and the crisply fried bread, with a filling of hot mashed potatoes, dipped in a tangy chutney, seems just right for a cool evening rapidly turning colder.

The scene at Saryu ghats at Ram ki Paidi

There are groups of Sadhus who have arrived from various parts. A knot standing before a mobile “Bal (infant) Hanuman” temple dwell on the special relationship between the son of Vayu and Lord Ram, how neither could do without the other and Hanuman’s faith and trust in the Prince of Ayodhya. There could not be a more welcoming setting for such recitals and soon there a goodly audience gathers with a few sellers of mandir merchandise sensing an opportunity as well.

Crowds at Lata Mangeshkar Chowk near Ayodhya Dham

The loud speakers somehow do not seem harsh and there is a spirituality in the air that is hard to miss. The word is that the security will tighten and movement will be further restricted from Sunday onwards but so far, despite a visible and heavy presence, the police has had a light imprint on proceedings, mainly keeping people away from the temple area itself. The mood of anticipation is measured and even reflective despite the flags and shouts of Jai Sri Ram. Everyone here knows the Lord is returning to his rightful residence. It is time to savour the moment.
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Ayodhya consecration ceremony Lord Rama Ram Temple