India on the Seine

MUMBAI AND PARIS. These two megacities have a lot in common, from their pulsating street life to their vibrant art scene to their residents who wear their city proudly on their sleeve. These two cultur­al centres now have one more link. They both have a Vaishali S store. Vaishali S, an eponymous label, is the brainchild of designer Vaishali Shadangule. Since its inception in 2001, the label has explored hand-woven textiles from Chanderi silk to Khunn (a weave from Karnataka). Vaishali S is best known for its signature technique of manipulating textiles into cords and the use of hand-weaving tech­niques on indigenous looms to create silhouettes which can be interpreted as the folds of origami and paper fans.

The Mumbai-based designer opened her vast Mumbai flagship store at Kala Ghoda, back in 2020, and it stands elbow to elbow with the boutiques of Gaurav Gupta and House of Masaba. But Shadangule has now gone one step (or many steps) further by becoming the first Indian designer to open a store in Paris. Located at 188 Boulevard Saint-Germain, Shadangule’s store is situated next to the legendary Café de Flore, which was once frequented by the likes of philosopher Georges Bataille and artist Pablo Picasso. The couture store opened doors on September 30, at the heels of the Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2025.

Forty-six-year-old Shadangule, is no stranger to Paris, as she has been a regular at Paris Couture Fashion Week, her latest showing being the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week 2024, with her collection ‘Satori’, which was hailed for its clarity, simplicity, and elegance. She debuted in Paris with her ‘Breath’ collection in 2021, where her signature cording braided with Merino wools and Chanderi silks created quite a stir. “The opening of my first store in Paris is a dream I’ve long wanted to realise,” she says, “I am thrilled to see my name on Rue Saint-Germain in Paris.”

Paris, the designer says, over the years, has meant a great deal to her. The city, she feels, is one that appreciates the avant garde and this is represented in its art, culture and structures. In the city of love, she likes to stop by a terrace bar for a coffee and watch the city go by.

The store has been designed and curated by the designer herself and carries a bespoke capsule collection. The aesthetic of the store is minimalist, so that the clothes can be the heroes. Shadangule, who began her journey as a designer in 2001, says while she is flattered to be called the ambassador of Indian textile heritage, she feels “there’s still so much more to do. I aim to reach a wider audience to share the crafts­manship of handloom textiles and to discover and revive even more tradi­tional weaves. My purpose is to ensure that these techniques and rich cultural stories continue to inspire and resonate with people around the world.”

Shadangule stands out in the fashion world because she is not showing over-the-top embroidery or heavy drapes. Instead, she takes the Indian and makes it truly modern. With her textural folds she creates shapes that resemble the curves of seashells and the swirls of waves on a beach. Her creations recreate the veins of leaves and the twirls of petals.

A champion of handmade, sustain­able and circular fashion, Shadangule is disheartened to see that Indian handicrafts and weaving techniques are struggling. She makes special mention of Jamakkalam weaving, which is the distinct bright striped carpets and blan­kets made in Erode district, Tamil Nadu. These rich cultures are declining because of a lack of awareness and because the younger generation is moving away from traditional clothing and occupations. She adds, “However, these weaves have immense beauty and potential. Today, they can be adapted through innovative techniques, and design allowing them to be embraced and understood globally.”

Her innovations can be seen beyond her couture brand in her foray into home décor called Ta’Wiz, which was launched in April 2024. A Ta’Wiz Textile Quilt, for example, is made from high-quality fabric scraps, creating an intricate textile mosaic. The multicolour quilt incorpo­rates different materials, such as Metallic Silk (Maheshwari), Chanderi Silk, Murshidabad Silk and more.

LIKE HER FASHION, Shadangule’s personal trajectory is anything but common. Born and raised in the small town of Vidisha in Madhya Pradesh, she grew up repurposing old clothes and using fruit and vegetable waste for art. At 17, she moved to Bhopal, to pursue a degree in computer engineering. She first ventured into fashion while working as an office assistant to cover her study expenses. After she completed her engi­neering, she got a job offer in Gujarat, but moved to Mumbai, took a loan, and in 2001 started a small boutique. She made clothes with the help of local tailors.

In 2011, Shadangule showcased at the coveted Lakmé Fashion Week. And from there, there was no turning back. Though she received mixed reviews, she went on to do about 17 shows at Lakmé Fashion Week and Couture Week in Delhi. Looking for newer pastures, Shadangule left for New York, where she had to hustle at first, but then in 2017, she was invited to show at New York Fashion Week. Paris Haute Couture Week soon followed. She has showcased thrice since then.

Being the first woman Indian designer to showcase at Paris, was according to her the biggest turning point in her career. “This allowed me to present Indian design, handlooms, and craftsmanship alongside some of the world’s leading fashion houses. It doubled my audience and confirmed that there is a global appreciation for the values behind Vaishali S Couture,” she says.

Rooted in her success, Shadangule keeps the artisans at the centre of her vision. She says, “I can recognise which weaver has created each set of fabrics and which tailor or karigar is responsi­ble for the final garment. When I look at images of my collections, I can see their hands and artistry in every piece. It’s a wonderful connection to have, but it also means I can spot their mistakes and hold them accountable when their work isn’t quite up to standard!”

Shadangule’s designs blend tradi­tional and the modern, allowing her global patrons to wear Indian heritage and artistry with panache. The artistic silhouettes reimagine ceremonial Indi­an textiles in a modern world. And have been adorned by the likes of Alia Bhatt, Radhika Apte, Janhvi Kapoor and Sonam Kapoor. Many of her designs tend to be inspired by nature — the jux­taposition of bold and delicate motifs and cuts is bound to make the wearer stand out. Be it a structured jacket with a flowy pattern imparted by the signature cords, or a saree that’s been inspired by ocean waves, the outfits reveal how India’s handlooms can be reinterpreted in startling ways.

Designer Nikhil Thampi, who has worked with Shadangule, says, “Her clothes may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but they definitely tell a story. And she celebrates India, India’s roots in embroidery and architectural pieces; with her nature-inspired silhouettes, nature-inspired embroidery, and colour palette. These are core Indian elements and taking that to a global platform is nothing but amazing.”

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