Faith Beyond Borders

The drive from Bangkok to Ayutthaya takes a little over an hour-and-a-half, past lush green fields, shiny canals, and small roadside shrines. Around 30 minutes or so into the drive, the noise of the city slowly starts to fade. Towering glass buildings are replaced by open skies and the sound of your vehicle’s tyres on near-empty roads.

Our driver, Santisuk, who goes by the nickname Top, seemed as excited as we were. “You see that canal,” he said, pointing out of the window. “In the old days, boats went all the way to Bangkok from here.” Every few kilometres, he would slow down slightly to show us something. As we drove along, he spoke animatedly about Ayutthaya’s storied past, eager for me to understand the importance that the city holds in shaping Thai history.

When you arrive, Ayutthaya feels like another world, far removed from Bangkok—ancient temples rising from the earth, small tourist groups walking past weathered ruins, and a river curling gently around the old city. Once the proud capital of Siam, it remains Thailand’s best-kept secret, where history and daily life move together in a calm rhythm. Unlike the glittering, colourful grandeur of Bangkok’s Grand Palace, Ayutthaya’s wats (temples) and palaces showcase red brick ruins standing proudly amidst the lush natural landscape.

Ayutthaya was founded in 1350 by the Siamese King U Thong, later known as King Ramathibodi. He chose this site because it was surrounded by three rivers—the Chao Phraya, the Pa Sak, and the Lopburi—which made it easy to defend and ideal for trade. Over time, the city became one of Asia’s busiest and richest capitals. Traders from India, China, Arabia, and even Europe came here. For more than 400 years, Ayutthaya flourished as the political and spiritual centre of Siam.

In 1767, Ayutthaya was invaded and destroyed by the Burmese army. The palaces were burnt, the temples looted, and much of the city left in ruins. The capital later moved to Thonburi and then to Bangkok. Once an important centre of global diplomacy and commerce, the city was never rebuilt in the same location and today stands as glorious archaeological ruins—red-brick temples, palace walls that rise tall against the sky. The Ayutthaya Historical Park covers most of the old city, and just by walking through it, you can almost imagine the grandeur of the past.

Situated about 70km north of Bangkok along the Chao Phraya River, Ayutthaya is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its rich cultural legacy. Among the main attractions are three remarkable temples that showcase the city's rich spiritual and architectural heritage.

Our first stop was at Wat Mahathat (Temple of the Great Relic), founded in 1374 by King Borommarachathirat I. It was once the residence of the supreme patriarch of the kingdom, making it a key centre of religious life. The temple’s most iconic feature is the Buddha head entwined within the roots of a banyan tree, symbolising the blend of nature and spirituality. “Every Thai knows this image,” said a local guide to a group of eager tourists near the tree. No one quite knows why or how the head came to be positioned there, but no one has changed the mysterious placement either.

Our next stop was Wat Phra Si Sanphet, constructed in 1448 by King Borommatrailokkanat, and once considered the holiest temple within the royal palace grounds. Its three great bell-shaped stupas, aligned perfectly in a row, once held the ashes of the kings of Ayutthaya. Though the palace itself was destroyed, these stupas remain as silent reminders of royal ceremonies and the lost splendour of the city. Wat Phra Si Sanphet seems to be better preserved than the previous ruins we had witnessed, even as the grounds teem with squirrels, birds, and other gentle creatures. Visiting the ruins is as much an excursion into nature, as into history.

After a long walk under the hot midday sun, it was time for lunch, and Santisuk suggested a break by the river. “The Thai food is delicious here,” he said, pulling up in front of a small eatery, called Saithong River Restaurant, shaded by several trees.

Inside, the air smelled of lemongrass and authenticity. The woman running the place welcomed us with a warm smile, even as she breezed around bringing out the food for a large group sitting behind us. The Tom Yum Goong— rich, spicy, and bursting with flavour—was paired perfectly with pineapple rice and a portion of boiled sticky rice. As we ate, motorboats drifted by in the background, and the river shimmered under the afternoon light.

Re-energised after the meal that was washed down with tender coconut water, we continued to Wat Chaiwatthanaram, located on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, a visual marvel, especially at sunset. Its towering central prong and surrounding smaller towers reflect beautifully in the water, creating a scene of serene symmetry. Built to commemorate the king’s mother, it also served as a royal monastery. Today, it remains one of Ayutthaya’s most photographed temples. What adds to its charm is the sight of visitors dressed in exquisite traditional Thai attire, posing against its golden light. Santisuk explained that nearby stalls rent out these outfits, complete with hairstyling, makeup, and even a meal—an all-inclusive experience that turns a temple visit into something out of a film.

The temple has long fascinated filmmakers—from the fantasy-action film Mortal Kombat (1995) to its sequel Mortal Kombat: Annihilation (1997), and later the Thai romantic-comedy series Love Destiny (2018), which revived interest in Ayutthaya among locals and tourists alike.

Not far from these temples lies a reclining Buddha, a serene figure that stretches lazily out in front of visitors. It’s a place where visitors pause and reflect. This statue reflects the city’s continued devotion to Buddhist traditions and offers a moment of calm amidst the bustling streets and temple grounds.

The Ayodhya-Ayutthaya Connection

Ayodhya in India and Ayutthaya in Thailand—separated by nearly 3,500 kilometres—share more than just a name. Named after its Indian counterpart, Ayutthaya mirrors Ayodhya in many ways: both sit by sacred rivers, both are steeped in legend and devotion, and both carry the timeless tales of the Ramayana—or Ramakien, as it is known in Thailand.

The link between Ayutthaya and Ayodhya goes beyond just a name though. In both cities, the story of Lord Rama is central. In Thailand, the Ramakien is not only literature but a living part of art, dance, and royal traditions. Thai kings of the Chakri dynasty, even today, take the title “Rama”. During the consecration of the new Ram temple in India in 2024, people in Ayutthaya celebrated with prayers, lamps, and offerings. Thai devotees sent soil and water from Ayutthaya’s rivers to Ayodhya—a symbolic bridge between two ancient cities.

What makes Ayutthaya fascinating is that it is here that the Ramayana, brought to Southeast Asia by Buddhist missionaries, was adapted into the Thai version known as the Ramakien. This transformation took place during the Ayutthaya Kingdom, and it is here that we can trace the lasting influence of Lord Rama’s story on Thai culture.

Thailand’s cultural connections to India extend beyond mythology. Festivals like Loy Krathong echo India’s Kartik Poornima and Dev Deepawali, while the presence of Hindu deities such as Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha, and Indra in temples and public spaces reflects a shared cultural heritage.

Loy Krathong, Thailand’s festival of lights, is celebrated in November each year by floating small offerings made of banana leaves, flowers, and candles on rivers and ponds. The ritual honours the water goddess and symbolically lets go of misfortune. In many ways, it feels like Diwali’s cousin—both being celebrations of light. As the krathongs drift along the water, flickering softly in the night, it’s easy to imagine the lamps of Ayodhya, lit to welcome Lord Rama home. Though separated by miles, the two festivals share the same quiet hope: that light will overcome darkness.

Ayutthaya is often described as a “day trip” from Bangkok, but it deserves more time. It may be in ruins, but it’s far from forgotten. It is not a city you rush through. It asks you to slow down. By the time you leave, you carry more than just photographs. You take with you a sense of calm, a small piece of Thailand’s heart.