BRICS was a sumptuous buffet, food critics missed the menu on the table

On September 12 as the BRICS (Brazil, Russia, India, China, South Africa) summit began, the rush at the international media center at Bharat Mandapam peaked. Journalists reached the venue as early as 8 am and parked themselves for the deliberations and briefings. As the morning progressed a steady stream of journalists arrived in shuttles arranged by the ministry of external affairs. Despite the large number of arrivals, the security checks by Delhi Police did not take too long and before long media persons reached a large hall where hundreds of tables with power points were provided along with dozens of sofas and cubicles for informal conversations and shoots.

The long hours meant the media, both Indian and foreign, needed sustenance. There were two coffee and tea stations, cookies for nibbles and refrigerated drinks. The staff at the serving counters was helpful and on specific requests fixed a choice of cappuccino or expresso too. Polite and friendly they were particularly attentive to foreign journalists asking them about their nationality and engaging in brief conversation. The weather outside was humid, hot and sapping. It was a relief to enter the hall, get hold of a can of cold water and, a little later, a cup of coffee or tea. The MEA websites and large screens were active and the briefing rooms capacious.

Food Discussion A Diversion

The dining area was large and there were three to four rows of serving tables with the food which ensured there was no crowding. The fare was simple but favourful. The choice of Indian, continental and Chinese offerings was well made and it did seem someone applied their minds to it. There were several tables and chairs to sit and have a meal while journalists could carry their plates to nearby sofas as well. The food, like the menu for the delegates and dignitaries, was vegetarian.

A discussion on the food at such a gathering should be incidental unless it was terrible. The lack of non-vegetarian dishes instead became a reason for commentators to whip themselves into a frenzy on social media, alleging the vegetarian choice reflects an intolerant streak. Some recalled how previous BJP governments did not share such preferences and that the late Atal Bihari Vajpayee was a food aficionado. Not that such allegedly eclectic tastes had made these commentators regard the Vajpayee government with any favor. Not to be left behind, Congress too waded into the row, with Rahul Gandhi saying 80% of Indians are non-vegetarian and adding that “Indian non-vegetarian food is delicious. As are my sister’s chole bhatura.” Congress accused the government of imposing dietary preferences on foreign dignitaries. Parliamentary affairs minister Kirren Rijuju responded saying “I can’t believe Congress is making politics even on food menu. Our guests relished Indian vegetarian cuisine which was rich in flavour and nutritional variety with diverse regional traditions.”

The Real Agenda

The political pow-wow was, of course, related to the menu at the BRICS gala dinner and not fare at the media center. But the issue was similar, as far as critics were concerned. A vegetarian menu has been the norm for some time now at official lunches hosted at the Hyderabad House for visiting heads of states and high dignitaries. For some who are part of Delhi’s breathless commentariat and are habituated to shooting first and asking questions later – there is a template response aimed at mocking the “veggie” menu and the choice of dishes. Anyone who has any experience of the Hyderabad House routine knows that no one is paying any attention to the menu. It is a time for informal talk and networking, even for the media persons invited to attend the official lunch.

The idea then was not really the choice of food or the lack of it. The barbs are essentially meant to run down the BRICS summit which defied the odds and ended on a productive note injecting fresh energy and purpose in a grouping that has several differences and diversities. Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s ability to work a consensus over difficult and intractable matters like the war in the Middle East rests on India’s significant leverage with all nations that attended the summit. The references to nuclear safety, Palestine and criticism of unilateral sanctions and tariffs without direct references to the United States or the West are evidence of diplomatic finesse and a practical example of strategic autonomy at work. It was interesting to note that Modi offered concrete suggestions such as setting up a 1,000 start ups to make cooperation between the BRICS family meaningful. There are many aspects his summit speech that provide a real sense of convergence.

But the discussion on the menu most of all ignores, and in fact mocks, the warmth and hospitality that hundreds of servers, cooks and food managers and curators brought to the table. And that is a shame.