The Megacity of Faith

FOR A FLEETING moment, the newly minted district of Uttar Pradesh, Mahakumbh Nagar, became the most populous city in India. Over five crore devotees descended on the sangam city during the first two days of the Maha Kumbh, catching even seasoned observers by surprise. The national capital of Delhi, with 3.30 crore inhabitants, has the highest population in India. And Prayagraj, the place where mela is organised, has a population of about 70 lakh at present.

The scale of this monumental religious gathering has grown exponentially, doubling in just six years and amplifying the fervour surrounding it. Back on January 14, 2019, 56 lakh pilgrims braved the winter chill to take a sacred dip at the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and the mythi­cal Saraswati rivers. By Makar Sankranti the next day, the crowd had swelled to over 1.5 crore, as per state government records. Fast forward to 2025, and the first two days of Maha Kumbh have already drawn over 5.1 crore devotees, setting a new milestone for faith-driven assemblies.

The spiritual crescendo began at dawn with the Shahi Snan (royal bath). Around 6AM, the Mahanirvani Akhara led the procession of sadhus and ascetics, followed by the Atal Akhara. The unprecedented crowd surge forced a rare pause in the sacred ritual, as mounted police ushered away eager devotees who had waded into the sangam ahead of the sadhus. Overhead, helicop­ters circled continuously, monitoring both saints and pilgrims in this unique spectacle of devotion.

At the heart of Maha Kumbh lies the Triveni Sangam, the divine confluence believed to purify the soul of sins. To accom­modate this sacred ritual, the sprawling Mahakumbh Nagar has been meticulously constructed on the sandy banks of the Ganges andY amuna. This temporary city, an engineering marvel, is designed to sustain the influx of tens of millions of pilgrims.

Over the next 45 days, officials estimate that 40 to 50 crore pil­grims will take a dip in the holy waters. “We were told our pro­jections were ambitious, but the numbers have already proven us right. In just two days, over five crore devotees have attended Maha Kumbh, and this is only the beginning,” said Amrit Abhijat, principal secretary of the Urban Development Department.

Spanning 10,000 acres, the Mahakumbh Nagar caters to all strata of society. Bare-bones tents provide basic accommodations for 10 lakh kalpvasis—devotees who spend an austere month on the riverbanks. At the other end of the spectrum, ultra-luxurious cottages with daily tariffs ranging from `10,000 to `1 lakh offer a premium experience amidst the chaos.

Preparations for this massive endeavour began a year ago. Around 1.6 lakh tents and camps have been set up for various religious organisations, complemented by 25,000 public accom­modations and dormitories. Over 400km of temporary roads built with metallic chequered plates crisscross the city, and 30 pontoon bridges create essential connections across the rivers.

With a `12,670 crore budget, the Central and state govern­ments have executed 410 projects to elevate public amenities and infrastructure for the event. Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath has personally conducted weekly inspections since December, while Prime Minister Narendra Modi visited the site in December to review preparations. Overall capacity, scale and size of the mela have gone up by 33 per cent compared to 2019.

During the agenda-setting meeting in November 2022, four core focus areas were identified to streamline operations for the massive event: enhancing the visitor experience, ensuring secu­rity and safety, improving accessibility, and scaling up the event’s infrastructure and scope. The Maha Kumbh experience has also been designed to appeal to a global audience. This year, all eyes were on Laurene Powell, widow of Steve Jobs, who was attending the mela.

Digital message boards provide multilingual infor­mation to visitors, while over 10 lakh square feet of wall murals and street art enrich the aesthetic appeal. Beau­tification of 36 traffic intersections, thematic lighting, and revamped temple corridors add to the spiritual am­biance. Infrastructure upgrades include widening 232 road stretches, commissioning 14 railway overbridges, and improving connectivity with neighbouring districts.

Amit Singh, joint managing director of Jal Nigam (Urban), highlighted the efforts to ensure sustainable water management and sanitation for the make­shift city. “A daily capacity to treat 1,700 kilolitres of faecal sludge has been created, while sewage pumping stations at Old Mori Gate, Allapur, and Alopibag have been doubled to accommodate the influx of visitors. Additionally, 81 small and large drains discharg­ing waste into the Ganga have been tapped. Overall, `1,600 crore has been invested to provide clean water and sanitation services during the mela and upgrade the city’s sewerage system,” he stated.

Beyond the makeshift city, Prayagraj itself has undergone a transformation. The four themed entry gates—Saraswati, Shiva, Ganga, and Yamuna— welcome visitors with grandeur, while 108 spiritual pillars and vast stretches of art have permanently altered the cityscape. Six iconic temple sites have been renovated, and a new corridor at the Lete Hanuman temple enhances crowd management.

Air travel to Prayagraj has surged, with 38 flights operat­ing daily as of January 14—three times the usual traffic. Local businesses are also thriving, with budget hotel rates skyrocketing from `1,800 to `6,000 per night.

Bengaluru-based entrepreneur Abhishek Bhartiya, who at­tended Maha Kumbh with his family, shared his nostalgic mo­tivation: “I wanted my sons to witness the grand religious affair I experienced as a child in 2001. Despite the crowded streets and steep flight costs, we managed to take a dip during the muhurat.”

For the millions who descend upon Prayagraj at this time, the experience feels timeless. Yet, few realise the monumental efforts that went into preparing the 44 temporary and permanent ghats spread along a 12km stretch of the rivers. Until October 23 last year, the very course of the Ganges was dramatically different, posing a significant challenge for the Maha Kumbh authorities.

After the monsoon, as excess water receded, the river split into three rivulets beneath the railway bridge, exposing dozens of sandbanks in the shallow waters. This unexpected phenom­enon reduced the circulating area for bathing ghats by a stagger­ing 60 per cent compared to 2019, with strong currents further eroding the sandy banks. Restoring the sacred site to its full capac­ity required both ingenuity and extraordinary effort.

With the guidance of professors at IIT Guwahati and the ex­pertise of the irrigation department, a huge reclamation project was launched. Four American dredgers worked tirelessly, day and night, to comb out 7 lakh cubic metres of sand—enough to fill 190 Olympic-sized swimming pools. This process reclaimed 65 acres of land, including five acres at the ‘sangam nose’, the exact confluence where the Ganges and the Yamuna merge. The reclaimed land allowed for the creation of additional ghats, ensur­ing that devotees could safely perform their rituals.

The challenges did not end with the rivers. Managing the influx of millions of pilgrims required meticulous planning, particularly for crowd and traffic control. To streamline movement, non-co­inciding entry and exit routes were designed, and a cutting-edge surveillance network of 2,300 AI-powered cameras was deployed.

A ring-like structure of 99 parking lots, capable of accommo­dating five lakh four-wheelers, was strategically established along the highways connecting Prayagraj to neighbouring districts. On peak bathing (snan) days, vehicles are directed to these parking zones on the outskirts where free shuttle bus services transport devotees to key points like Parade Ground and Daraganj.

“On big snan days, vehicle owners are being asked to park their cars in designated lots. Shuttle services ensure smooth transit to and from the ghats,” explained Bhanu Bhaskar, additional director general of the Prayagraj zone. These shuttles operate across 14 routes, ferrying devotees seamlessly from parking areas and satellite railway stations to the heart of the mela.

Maha Kumbh 2025 is a testament to not just faith but also human ingenuity. From reclaiming riverbanks to building a functional megacity, it exemplifies India’s ability to seamless­ly blend tradition with modernity. And as millions take the holy dip, the pop-up city of faith continues to inspire awe and devotion in equal measure.

Maha Kumbh 2025Narendra ModiPrayagrajYogi Adityanath