January 23, 2025

At the Kumbh, in this vast congregation of faith, kindness flows as naturally as the Ganga herself, touching every life it encounters. People, regardless of their backgrounds, come together to serve without expectation.

A small ashram with modest means might provide comfort in the cold by offering a hot cup of chai or a simple meal at a bhandara, not for recognition but as an offering to humanity. Ashrams open their doors, offering blankets or a corner to rest. Some, with greater resources or specialised skills, set up makeshift hospitals, bringing teams of doctors who heal without asking for a single rupee.

Generosity at the Kumbh is not defined by the size of the offering but by the sincerity with which it is given. No matter how small, every act becomes a vital thread in the intricate tapestry of compassion. For both the devout and the weary, this collective service serves as a timeless reminder: we are most human and complete when we give without seeking anything in return.

In a world that often seems fragmented, the Kumbh offers a timeless lesson: when kindness is unconditional, humanity flourishes.

Pujas at Kumbh Mela

January 22, 2025

While the grandeur of the Kumbh Mela, its majestic processions, mass holy dips, and sprawling tent cities often capture the world’s attention, there is a quieter, more intimate form of celebration that unfolds along its sacred ghats. These riverbanks are not just stages for the sadhus and akharas to perform their elaborate rituals and grand ceremonies; they are also where families gather for personal, heartfelt pujas, guided by their trusted pandits.

As the first rays of sunlight touch the sacred waters, the air fills with the resonant chants of “Har Har Gange.” Families huddle together on hay mats spread across the riverbank, their pandits in saffron dhotis leading them through rituals steeped in meaning. Each puja is a story in itself: some perform tarpan, offering water and prayers to honour their ancestors; others seek blessings for health, prosperity, or spiritual peace. Some even whisper prayers for a child’s future, their hopes flowing into the river’s eternal current.

In these moments, the crowded ghats transform into a tapestry of devotion. The stillness of a single prayer, the clasped hands of a family, and the quiet power of personal rituals stand in contrast to the overwhelming spectacle surrounding them.

The Kumbh Mela is ultimately a mosaic of countless such stories and is a reminder that faith remains deeply personal, even in the company of millions.

Walking, Pilgrimage and Kumbh Mela

January 21, 2025

Every 12 years, millions of devotees gather, their numbers growing with each passing event at the Kumbh Mela to take a dip in the holy waters at the Triveni Sangam. They walk across 450 kilometres of roads traversing 30 pontoon bridges and navigate the 25 sectors of the sprawling Mela grounds. What compels people to undertake such a physically demanding pilgrimage? What kind of devotion inspires them to brave the biting cold of winter and immerse themselves in icy waters, setting aside discomfort with such unwavering willingness?

Perhaps walking at the Kumbh Mela becomes an act of imitation, a sacred play that mirrors the timeless flow of the Ganga, Yamuna, and the elusive Saraswati. These rivers traverse vast distances to reach the Sangam, only to continue their journey beyond. In the same way, walking through the Kumbh Mela enacts a spiritual rhythm, evoking the devotion and continuity of faith. Much like the enactments of the Ramayana during Diwali, where devotees remember Ram’s journey, walking in the Kumbh transforms into a living remembrance- a celebration of movement and divine purpose.

Or perhaps the exhaustion of walking around the Kumbh Mela is a way of stripping life down to its essentials. Each step becomes an act of surrender, treading the same paths as countless others before you- a process of wearing away the layers of materialism and the relentless pressures of everyday life. The fatigue of the journey is soothed by the stories of fellow travellers, shared in moments of prayer and simple meals. These shared experiences create a warmth of human connection, weaving bonds of faith and camaraderie as the throng moves together toward the sacred Sangam, united in their quest for something greater than themselves.

If pilgrimage serves as a reminder that life itself is a journey, then the Kumbh Mela—the largest congregation on Earth—becomes an indelible mark on the collective soul of humanity, urging each individual to strive for moksha, or ultimate liberation. At the Kumbh, even the simple act of walking transcends its physicality, transforming into a profound manifestation of this aspiration. With every step taken amidst the throngs of devotees, the journey becomes a symbolic progression toward spiritual liberation, a living testament to humanity’s timeless quest for transcendence.

The Essence of Kumbh

January 20, 2025

“Ganga me sirf doobki lagane se moksh nahi milta. Moksh tab prapt hota hai jab hum gyan ko samajhte hain, usse seekhte hain, aur fir us gyan ko auron ke saath baante hain.”

(“Dipping in the holy Ganges alone does not grant liberation. True moksha is attained by understanding knowledge, learning it, and sharing it with others.”)

This profound wisdom, shared with us during a heartfelt conversation with a devotee, unfolds before your eyes as you explore the sprawling Akhadas and pandals of the Kumbh Mela, manifesting itself in countless forms. The Kumbh, which began as a sacred gathering of sadhus and religious leaders for the exchange of knowledge, remains rooted in today’s Kumbh Mela as well.

In one pandal, we saw disciples seated cross-legged, their pens scribbling away in their notebooks as they absorbed the profound pravachan of their guru. Elsewhere, a dramatic enactment brought mythological tales to life, weaving teachings into the beautiful performance. In a pandal, we witnessed a soulful kirtan, voices and clapping hands rising together, eyes closed in reverence, with devotion in the air.

In another pandal, the joyous rhythm of devotees dancing to bhajans filled the air as others watched and joined in the celebration with smiles and claps. In sharp contrast, some spaces offered an intimate atmosphere where seekers sat before their gurus, asking personal questions. Drawing from years of sadhana (practice), the gurus responded with verses from sacred texts, offering wisdom and guidance rooted in deep experience.

The essence of Kumbh can be understood by this pursuit of knowledge and shared spiritual experiences. These experiences remind us that liberation is a path of understanding, learning, and sharing, a practice that unites everyone at the Kumbh.

Chai at Kumbh Mela

January 19, 2025

In the Maha Kumbh Mela, only a few common threads bind everyone together, no matter where they come from- Ganga, Sewa, and Chai. Chaiwalas can be found at every corner, enticing devotees with steaming cups of hot chai, a comforting warmth that makes the cold months of the Kumbh Mela more bearable. Devotees and Sadhus alike find rest from arduous hours of bhajans and walking around the Kumbh Mela in kulhads of chai.

The near-perennial supply of Chai is astonishing. The bhakts from Jhandewalan Mandir from Delhi recognised the respite chai can provide and provide sewa in the form of chai-bhandara at Kumbh Mela. The love for chai compels them to use around 2000 litres of milk daily. While this may seem like an abundance of chai, it is a fraction of the daily tea consumed across the sprawling 4,000 hectares of the Kumbh Mela. Along the 12 kilometres of bustling bathing ghats and the 450 kilometres of roads crisscrossing the Mela grounds, chai vendors are a constant presence. Almost every few steps, the comforting aroma of freshly brewed tea wafts through the air, inviting pilgrims and visitors alike to take a moment of warmth and respite.

The Kumbh Mela is a blend of grand communal rituals and personal moments of devotion. Amid the fervour, a cup of chai offers a simple, tranquil pause, uniting visitors in warmth and reflection, proving that even amidst grandeur, solace lies in the simplest pleasures.

The Playful Souls of Kumbh Mela: A Celebration of Childhood Joy

January 18, 2025

The Kumbh Mela is a spectacle of faith, devotion, and humanity. Still, amid the chanting sadhus, the swirling crowds, and the rhythmic aartis, it’s the children who infuse the festival with a unique vibrancy. Their presence breathes youthful energy into the festival and rings out above the hum of the crowds.

You can spot them everywhere. Some cling to their parents or guardians who have travelled from nearby villages or far-off cities. Others, however, seem to carry the spirit of self-reliance. They engage in small entrepreneurial activities- a few sit by flower stalls, stringing flowers into garlands, while others carry urns of oil or bundles of incense sticks, offering blessings in exchange for small donations. Some sell vegetables and groceries. What binds them all, though, is a sense of joy and mischief. The children can be seen everywhere in the Mela, and their playful chatter turns mundane commerce into a spirited adventure.

The children find their most exciting moments during a playful dip in the cold river waters, where splashes and giggles outnumber prayers. Some sit wide-eyed during the chants of aartis, absorbing the moment, while most eagerly await the prasad. Food stalls, especially chaat thelas and ice cream vendors, are irresistible magnets for these young attendees. It’s a reminder that while the children may not grasp the significance of the Kumbh Mela, they are fully attuned to the pleasures of life at the Mela.

The children at the Kumbh Mela remind us that the festival is not just a convergence of spirituality but also a celebration of life in all its forms. Their boundless energy and innocent joy make the sacred even more special and unforgettable.

The Nagavsuki Temple: Celebration of Devotion and Renewal

January 18, 2025

Within the grand tapestry of the Kumbh Mela and its sacred grounds lies the Nagavsuki Temple. Such is the temple’s centrality to the lore of Kumbh Mela that a pilgrimage’s efforts are wasted without a visit to the temple. The main idol at the temple, housed in the sanctum sanctorum, is of the King of Snakes, Nagavasuki. This sacred sanctuary, also called “Naghriday Tirth,” is a hidden gem of profound spiritual significance. For a true seeker on a journey to the Kumbh, it becomes not just a place of worship but a haven for sadhana and a rare connection to the lord.

Perched atop a hill overlooking the Ganga, the Nagavasuki Mandir is more than just a shrine; it’s a beacon of solace and spiritual healing. The temple’s main entrance opens to roads on the side leading to a nearby railway station, and an entrance towards the back of the temple opens to a residential colony right at the back of the temple. It feels like an intimate affair with those residing near the temple premises and travellers from far off. Some sit down after completing parikramas around a peepal tree right next to the idol of Nagavasuki, sharing words of devotion with fellow devotees. The temple priests offer remedies for various challenges, from performing Kaal Sarp Dosh Puja to bringing harmony to rituals designed to pacify planetary influences, ward off evil, or restore vitality to the sick. These practices draw countless devotees seeking both spiritual and earthly solace.

According to ancient lore, the devas and asuras used Vasuki, the serpent king, as a rope to churn the ocean for the nectar of immortality. When the elixir spilled onto four spots on earth, one of them was Prayagraj, making it a sacred site for the Kumbh Mela. The temple marks the place where the mighty serpent is believed to have rested after his monumental effort, symbolising gratitude and reverence for his contribution to divine creation.

The temple and surrounding areas have undergone a significant transformation in preparation for the 2025 Maha Kumbh. The freshly renovated temple walls narrate the story of Samudra Manthan, while signboards guide visitors through the temple’s rich history and significance. Thanks to a newly erected board, traffic around the temple is now better managed. A new pontoon bridge across the Ganga enhances accessibility, linking the temple to the Sangam area and making it easier for pilgrims to visit this sacred spot.

Blossoms of Devotion

January 17, 2025

Flowers filled with fragrance bring joy to the heart; when used in worship, they guide the devotee on the path to liberation
– From the Narada Purana (Purva Bhaga, Chapter 51.40)

The air at the Mahakumbh Mela 2025 in Prayagraj is infused with a heady mix of devotion, spirituality, and the unmistakable fragrance of fresh flowers. Naga Sadhus, ascetics who renounce worldly possessions, including clothing, stood out with their ash-smeared bodies ornamented with flowers, strikingly contrasting their austere appearance. In this extraordinary scene, flowers transformed into their attire, draped across their forms as they paraded towards the sacred Sangam for the ceremonial dip. The sadhus, adorned with their floral finery, entered the water amidst chants of “Har Har Mahadev” and “Jai Ganga Maiya”. The scene was chaotic and serene, a paradox only the Kumbh Mela can encapsulate. It was a living testament to the transformative power of devotion, where even the simplest of elements—flowers—took on profound spiritual significance.

Flowers are sacred in Hindu worship, from temples to home altars, as they form an indispensable part of rituals. But nowhere is their presence more vibrant and awe-inspiring than at the Kumbh Mela. The spectacle of chariots in the procession of sadhus adorned with a kaleidoscope of flowers is a sight that stays etched in the memory of every pilgrim. As the first Shahi Snan of this Maha Kumbh unfolded, the chariots in the processions of the sadhus became moving gardens, radiating the fervour of the festival.

The Kumbh Mela, in all its grandeur, is a celebration of life, faith, and the simple, unassuming bloom that bridges the human and the divine. Walking through the Mela grounds, one cannot help but notice the deep connection between flowers and faith. Vendors selling garlands and loose flowers line the pathways, their offerings eagerly picked up by devotees. The flowers are not merely decorative; they are symbols of purity and love, offered to deities as a gesture of devotion and gratitude. The flowers at the Kumbh Mela are more than offerings; they are carriers of emotion, faith, and a deep sense of connection to the divine. They weave together the threads of tradition, art, and devotion, turning a sprawling gathering into a masterpiece of collective spirituality.

It is Tough Being a Cop in Prayagraj

January 13, 2025

The Kumbh Mela is not just a spiritual gathering; it is a carefully orchestrated endeavour that blends faith with meticulous planning. In a conversation with a group of police constables, the layers of preparation and effort became clear. “Managing an event of this scale is no small feat,” one constable said. “It’s not just about crowd control; it’s about ensuring that every individual feels safe and cared for.”

The complexity of the operation is reflected in the systems designed for crowd movement. On Pontoon bridges, a one-way traffic system alternates directions based on odd and even numbers, preventing bottlenecks and ensuring a seamless flow of people. “It’s all about keeping things moving smoothly,” a constable explained, emphasising the balance between control and the natural rhythm of the crowd.

Communication plays a vital role, with helplines like the Maha Kumbh number (1920) and the Mela Police Helpline (122) serving as lifelines for those needing assistance. Sector-wise maps, they said, are the backbone of police deployment and coordination, allowing the force to respond swiftly and efficiently.

The constables detailed the day-to-day realities of their work. They narrated how the police force operates round-the-clock in 8-hour shifts, ensuring a constant presence across the sprawling grounds. “We’ve set up women’s police stations at strategic points as well, along with ours,” said another officer. “These are crucial for addressing the needs and safety of female pilgrims, who form a significant part of the attendees.”

“It’s a team effort,” one constable remarked, “from civil defence to the Rapid Action Force, everyone plays a part in ensuring the Mela runs safely and peacefully. Our role is to protect, but also to guide and assist.” As they shared their experiences, it became evident that the Kumbh Mela’s success rests not just on the devotion of its pilgrims but also on the dedication of those who work tirelessly behind the scenes.

For most sadhus, Maha Kumbh is a microcosm of devotion, community

January 13, 2025

“The purpose of human life,” a Sadhu at the Kumbh Mela notes, “is to serve, to give”. Each of us has only a finite time during which our bodies and minds can function at their fullest, he adds. “This time is not for hoarding wealth, knowledge, or resources but for sharing them with those in need. Through Seva, we learn to live a truly full life, one free from the weight of ego. It teaches us humility, gratitude, and the profound joy of giving selflessly,” he explains.

He spoke of his journey, one that led him to renounce personal desires and join an Akhada, a one in which ascetics were devoted to seva. “Beyond a certain point, when your needs are met and your desires fulfilled, holding on to more than what is necessary brings imbalance. It is then that Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, turns her blessings into punishment. Greed blinds the soul, and the only way to cleanse it is through giving, through Seva.”

He had sacrificed worldly possessions, wealth, and comfort to align himself with the principles of the Akhada. The focus of his existence had shifted from receiving to giving: offering wisdom, knowledge and food to the hungry. “Seva,” he said, “is the purest act of faith. It is how we honor the divine within us and in others. Before our systems, this body, this mind, shut down, we must serve. That is the ultimate purpose of life.”

The Sadhu described the Kumbh as a microcosm of devotion and community. “This is where the Gurus teach the art of giving. They show us how to incorporate Seva into our daily lives, to live fully and meaningfully. It’s not just about faith in God; it’s about faith in goodness, in humanity.” Similar are the tales that other saints here in Prayagraj have to offer. The Kumbh Mela therefore becomes a mirror reflecting the highest ideals of human life. It is not just a festival or a pilgrimage; it is a reminder that life is not measured by what we hold but by what we share, it’s only through seva that we learn how to live a meaningful life. This is the heart of the Kumbh: a confluence not just of rivers, but of faith, humanity, and the timeless call to serve.

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