Watch: Disha Patani walks for Amit Aggarwal and Diana Penty hits the runway for Verandah at Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI

As Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI rolled into its penultimate day, the lineup offered a mix of designers with distinct aesthetics—some offering bridal and occasionwear while others leaned onto men’s fashion (the season’s winning trend) and ready-to-wear.

Amit Aggarwal and Verandah by Anjali Patel Mehta were among the day’s big attraction, while emerging designer Anurag Gupta presented his collection as winner of the latest edition of spotlight.

It was a day heavy on brand collaborations and celebrity showstoppers. Think Khushi Kapoor for Aisha Rao, Tamannah Bhatia for Bhumika Sharma, Nimrat Kaur for Jajabor, Disha Patani walks for Amit Aggarwal and Diana Penty for Verandah and Malavika Mohanan for Anurag Gupta among others.

Shine Theory: Amit Aggarwal

The scramble for passes and a front row packed with celebrities and influencers testified to the draw Amit Aggarwal has on his audience.

In collaboration with the jewellery brand Indriya, Aggarwal—who now lives in Delhi but is from Mumbai—showcased ‘Orizon’, a collection exploring the notion of light as a “moment of change”.

Material intervention is the foundational pillar of Aggarwal’s eponymous label, as well as his ready-to-wear line AM.IT, and his ability to translate experimental techniques into commercially-viable fashion products has been crucial to his success.

‘Orizon’ was a mixed bag, beginning with sleek black ensembles, ostensibly to juxtapose the Indriya diamonds accessorising the garments, before moving on to bridal-ready designs.

Aggarwal’s proprietary pleating and weaving techniques, combined with his Banarasi edits (which have become hugely popular in the last couple of years) and mirrorwork; some shining so bright that they eclipsed the jewels on display.

When Aggarwal is at his most peak, his effect is spellbinding—Orizon did not have that effect, but the collection was a definite crowd-pleaser.

Showstopper dress code: Disha Patani finished the show for Aggarwal, gleaming in a black sculpted lehenga set.

Resort Life

Verandah by Anjali Patel Mehta

Anjali Patel Mehta’s label, Verandah, is among India’s best-known resortwear labels—one that made its first mark globally, stocking with the likes of Moda Operandi, Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods among others and finding place in shows like 'The White Lotus'.

Years ago, Mehta switched careers from corporate to design with the aim to create resortwear that was chic and luxurious but also consciously crafted—qualities that have endured as Verandah has grown, earning he label a Butterfly Mark.

This season, Mehta brought memories of her grandmother to the runway, dressing models in breezy, vacation-ready garments and swimwear featuring florals and botanicals, rangoli patterns and motifs drawn from textiles and jewellery finished with beading, macramé and other detailing.

Showstopper dress code: Diana Penty arrived on the runway dressed in a deep blue maxi dress with large, striking magnolia blossoms.

Sculptural Take: Anurag Gupta

In recent years, The Spotlight—a talent initiative at fashion week to showcase emerging Indian designers—has lived up to its name, with winners including labels such as SWGT, Paiwand Studio, Countrymade and Til by Ankur Verma.

This season, marking its 11th edition, designer Anurag Gupta presented ‘The New Primitive’ a collection inspired by textile engineering, experiments in construction and the works of the19th century Japanese ukiyo-e artist, Utagawa Kuniyoshi.

What drew attention first were the silhouettes—exaggerated shoulders on jackets, bodies seemingly encased in towering pantsuits, a pair of denim that opened up in the manner of batwings and an overall aesthetic that recalled the sculptural experiments of couture labels like Viktor&Rolf.

But it wasn’t perhaps just the avant-garde appeal that earned Gupta his place in The Spotlight.

The designer also worked on engineering natural fibres to have low water usage and pesticide interventions while also enhacing its structure and stability.

The Kuniyoshi-inspired art, abundant in swirling lines and mythical motifs, added graphic detailing and colour to the garments.

Showstopper dress code: Malavika Mohanan wore a little white with a black tie, a more wearable piece from the collection amped up with power shoulders