Mystic Mountain

AS I STEP onto the sacred Shatrunjaya hill, I am greet­ed by the strong fragrance of sandalwood and roses. A rocky outcrop is being wor­shipped by Jain devotees carrying plates filled with lush pink roses and a small bowl with sandal paste. Some of them have silver foil sheets as an additional offering for the hallowed rock.

It is tradition to bow to the hill, even do its puja, before undertaking the 3,750-step climb to the massive temple complex at its top. With more than 800 Jain temples at 2,000 feet, it is considered the world’s largest temple complex on hilltop. Midway through my climb, the road bends and I see the temple domes and spires encircled by a fortifying wall. It is elating and humbling at the same time to grasp the sheer effort of centuries to build such a complex. Despite multiple Mughal attacks, the temples have been rebuilt and expanded by later generations of Jains.

The steps are small and evenly cut. Every few metres, there are comfortable benches to rest along with water points. “Earlier, we [the locals] had to carry the wa­ter from the base. It was a very difficult job. Now there are pipes. Much easier for us. We can provide water to all the pilgrims,” said a cheerful grandmother who was managing one of the water points.

The only challenge is that eating food on the hill is forbidden, as it is in any temple. Thus, the climb and the many hours of rituals and exploration on the hilltop are done while fasting. There is a fascinating combination of numerous food restrictions, fasting rituals and a contradictory gastronomical delight in the Jain community. Tired pilgrims climbing back down wait for the echoes of “Bhata no pass, Bhata no pass”. The Bhata-ghar is located at the base, and all pilgrims who have climbed the hill get a free pass for a snack.

Tea, coffee, sweet milk, fennel sherbet and Gujarati snacks like sev, gathiya, and khaakhras make up the Bhata-ghar menu. It is a special emotion to be sitting there after the pilgrimage, chatting with family and friends. Nearby is the famous pome­granate bhel shop. “You can ask him for a pomegranate fruit plate if you want,” said my mother, knowing my preference for healthy food. The unique combination of pomegranate bhel, pomegranate fruit and sugarcane juice did not disappoint me.

The focal point of the Shatrunjaya pilgrimage is the Dada Darbar, the main temple of Adinath, also called Rishabhdev, the first Jain Tirthankar (supreme preacher). As in the court of a king, the scene here is lively. Musical notes fill the air—drums, harmonium, cymbals and a group of people singing bhajans. A few devotees break into an impromptu dance. Other devotees are busy with rituals. Several monks are circumambu­lating the temple. And two long serpen­tine queues on each side for men and women waiting for their turn to do puja of the main idol.

“I was able to do navang [9-points] puja. Usually, they allow us to put the sandal paste only on the right toe of the idol, but today, they are allowing us to put it on all the nine points as we do in a complete puja,” exclaimed a lady next to me.

“That means the line is going to move very slowly,” groaned another who was waiting for her turn.

Next to this temple, the larger-than-life footprints of Adinath have been established under a sacred Rayan tree. This is where Adinath is said to have sat for a discourse and is one of the most important places on the hilltop.

All around, there are many more shrines. I meander through them explor­ing hidden passageways. Each idol has a number painted near it in Gujarati numerals—852, 853, 854. Number 855 is a male idol with 10 faces and 10 hands holding a veena—quite an unusual sight in a Jain temple. Facing him is idol number 858 of a plainly dressed lady. “This is Ravana and his wife Mandodari”, said the pujari. Idol number 1,000 is Bahubali in kayotsarga, the Jain standing-meditation posture. Next to him is his brother Bharat, a chakravartin king after whom India has been named.

There are a lot of chaturmukh shrines, at their centre is a unit of four idols, each facing the four cardinal directions. These idols inevitably make us circumambu­late around them. Some of these temples are three floors high with chaturmukh idols on each floor.

The temples on this hill are not small, singular shrines. There are many large, magnificent temples that leave us in awe of the scale of this construction. I have to remind myself that this is on top of a hill. We may wonder what it is that makes this particular hill so revered. After all, several generations have taken much effort to keep enriching it. Heavy taxes were levied on pilgrims to this hill during the Mughal and British periods, yet the Jain community bore the brunt and kept the worship alive.

Apart from Adinath’s presence, many other noteworthy events are associated with this hill. Millions of Jain monks have been enlightened here, 23 out of the 24 Jain Tirthankars visited this hill. This hill is considered eternal as per Jain understanding. Through all the past and future yugas, it is said that this hill has been and will remain eternally available. Another reason that makes this hill and the region around it very important for the Jain community is the religious infrastructure.

At the base of this hill, 2km from the Gujarati town of Palitana, there are hundreds of Jain temples, dharamsha­las and bhojanalayas for monks. It is a thriving city of Jain devotion. All year round, there are many Jain monks and nuns here, conducting programmes and activities. Ancient ritual systems have been created for which Jains come here from far and wide. One such is the 99 yatras and every Jain is encouraged to do it at least once in their life. Pilgrims stay for a month or two and do 99 climbs at one stretch. Many young devotees may do as many as five climbs each day. A specific set of rituals are to be performed during each of these climbs.

Jain food rules go much deeper than simply a vegetarian cuisine. Root veg­etables, a few leafy greens, brinjal, mush­rooms, cauliflower and many other ingredients are taboo for different rea­sons related to ahimsa or non-violence towards microbial life. Yet, a visit to the many Jain bhojanalayas here leaves me amazed with the spread and diversity of the dishes—rasam vada, samosas, salads, even pasta and pizza may be served—all made as per the strict Jain rules.

Seasoned pilgrims usually have their favourites. Aagam Mandir is one of the oldest dharamshalas and their lavish meals stand apart for me. For the pil­grims who are doing strict sadhana like the 99 yatras or other lengthy rituals, they get an even more elaborate spread of food. “I have to be very careful while choosing what to eat, because it significantly im­pacts my ability to do sadhana later on”, confided my uncle while he was doing his 99 yatras.

This region around Palitana has ancient footprints of Adinath in many places. One of these is Rohishala, located on the banks of the Shatrunjaya river. Earlier, it may have been a bubbling stream, but now there is a serene reservoir lake. The evening arti at the ghat of this lake is very popular with the pilgrims.

Another marvelous visit is Hastgiri. I was wonderstruck seeing the sprawling white marble fortress-style temple built across nine acres in the wilderness. “A few devotees had planned to construct a small temple around the footprints of Adinath. However, Acharya Ramchandrasuri Maharaj reminded them that Hastgiri is considered another peak of Shatrunjaya hill. The devotees then felt that a small temple won’t do,” explained the pujari.

Located about 25km from Palitana, Hastgiri falls on the circumambulatory route around the Shatrun­jaya hill after Rohishala. Other spots on this route include Sidhwad, with a sacred banyan tree, and Gheti Pag.

“Adinath climbed the hill from Gheti Pag, and it is a short and steep route. Many of us doing 99 yatras, will usually do at least two climbs daily. Start­ing from Palitana side in the early morning, reaching the top, climb­ing back down to Gheti Pag. Then the second climb up from Gheti Pag and then down to Palitana. It can be done comfortably. We also feel a deep devotion when we trace Adinath’s route,” said my uncle.

On a few important days like Kartik Purnima, Chaitra Purnima and Phalguna 13th waxing moon phase as per the Jain almanac, the hill bursts with devotees. Climbing it during the rainy season is avoided until the monsoon ends with Kartik Purnima. On that full moon day, a replica of Shatrunjaya hill is created across all major Jain temples of India and devotees flock there with hearts filled with devotion.

AdinathDada DarbarJain TemplesPalitana city templeRavanaRishabhdevShatrunjaya hilTirthankarasTravel Issue 2025